![]() Like anything, understanding your options and needs before you buy will save you money in the long run. From doing my research on this forum, this seems to be a common thing. He also informed me that the stator and rectifier was recently replaced as well. The previous owner informed me that the ECU will need to be replaced because it no longer works. The advantage of using a piggyback then is that it's less complicated, and you can add some functionality like traction control as well. Im currently in the process of purchasing a used 2007 Gsxr 750. Systems like FT ECU do not have traction control functionality for Suzuki's. good for those people looking to continually tweak and adjust the performance of their bike. This gives you huge amounts of control over your ECU. You can control ignition timing, fuel, secondary throttles, and sometimes event the exhaust valve. The advantages to the first option are that they typically have more tuning parameters. Then bring the bike to the dyno and have them tune the piggyback. Send your ECU in, have it reflashed to turn on/off any functionality you deem helpful, get a piggyback system (Bazzaz/dynojet.etc) and use that to control the fuel (and ignition if possible). Buy the programming hardware and licenses needed to reflash your ECU, take that to a dyno and have them tune your bike - or if the dyno facility already has the hardware, then they do it all for you.Ģ. This leaves customers with a few options:ġ. I've never seen two bikes respond to the same map identically, unless they're both bone stock off the showroom bikes. Trying to send an ECU in for a new fuel calibration is sketchy, and the more modifications you make the the bike, the worse this situation becomes. When it comes to controlling the fuel and ignition, it's always preferable to have that tuned for your bike specifically - usually on a dyno. Bend your paperclip so it will fit in there without wanting to pull itself out. Find the ports where they go into the adapter on the other side. TRE (Timing retard enable) or speed limiters can also be turned off. Locate the white with red trace and black with white trace wires. Same for ECU controlled steering dampers if you're looking to go to an aftermarket version. any recommendations? I do push it at times so need something grippy yet should last 1-2 seasons.Some of the advantages of having your ECU flashed are that they can disable or adjust some of the other non-fuel and ignition map related functionalities.įor bikes with emissions systems like PAIR and EVAP valves, that functionality can be turned off in the ECU preventing any check engine codes. oh shit lol.Īlso need a rear tire, good grip n average duration. **note I have a Scorpio alarm on my bike so I’m trying to avoid adding more wiring harnesses n piggy backs in the bike. Any other reputable company for ecu flash? So I’m leaning more towards the ECU flash over the PCV. Should I go with a mid pipe or get headers? I saw MJS midpipe for $140 or headers that come with the midpipe obviously for $320 or any other suggestions on which mid-pipe should I go with? I couldn’t find anything 2bros specific.Īfter getting rid of the cat should I go with ECU flash or PCV? I won’t be doing anything to the bike after the cat delete a 2bros m2 Black Series slip on getting rid of the cat. ![]() While keeping the expense to its lowest.īike: 2011 gsxr 600. The few hp gain would be nice but i care more about the smooth throttle response, low end power and the sound. spring wtf fuck!?!?!Īnyway first of this is going to be for street riding only. n now that I think about it I should have gotten this taken care of in the winter but we got snow coming in 2 days n its april. ![]() Even with the Stage 1 tune, gains can be seen from the mid-range through redline. The green line is a Stage 2 tune after installing an Arrow slip-on exhaust. The red line is what’s called Stage 1, with just an ECU flash on an otherwise stock bike. Alrite peeps finally riding season in NY. The blue line is the baseline run with the completely stock bike. ![]()
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